The Ferrata Mazzocchi climbs between walls and transoms of medium difficulty, is located in the upper Val Nure, on the border between the provinces of Piacenza and practically Genoa, in the area near Monte Bue and Monte Nero.
The starting point of the excursion is Passo Zavallo in the province of Piacenza. The pass can be reached from both Piacenza and Chiavari (A12). You can also reach Santo Stefano d’Aveto (GE); from Genoa, take the motorway to Lavagna then follow the signs for Bonzonasca and Santo Stefano d’Aveto through the Forcella pass or through the Val Fontana Buona and the Scoglina pass.
From the parking lot
to Passo Zovallo (1405 m) yes in the mouth the evident path 001 that begins in front of the large open space where cars are parked. Follow the path in the direction of Lake Nero (1541m). Continue along path 011 towards Fontana Gelata continuing up to the Bivouac Sacchi (1600 m) taking path 007. From the bivouac you can reach in five minutes the start of the via ferrata at 1h 45 ‘from the parking lot that develops along the bastion of the Gruppo delle Ali.
The via ferrata starts with an oblique channel to the left and after a very short steep passage, begins a traverse exposed to the right that goes around a rock. In addition to the metal cable, this section has a sturdy chain. The first meters of the traverse are quite easy, but these are followed by a fairly demanding ascending stretch that requires some traction on the cable.
After the traverse you reach an edge that leads to the first staircase of the path that allows you to overcome a vertical channel, followed by a back to the left rather gripped. At the end of the staircase continue on a ledge and reach a slightly overhanging wall, which represents the right face of a dihedral. Such a wall can be bypassed to the left.
At the end of this wall you arrive on a wide ledge where there is an escape route on the left. Continuing to the right you meet a traverse on plates, poor in holds that allows you to get around a challenging edge thus arriving at a path which can be faced to the right until you reach a staircase or you can choose to climb the wall of the path, rather dark, on the left reaching an exposed traverse without holds until you reach a long and exposed staircase at the end of which we meet a smooth channel followed by a left plate. You reach under the final wall, and passing it you arrive on a beautiful plateau that is the top of the Groppo delle Ali (1h from the starting point 1689 m – 2h 45 ‘from the parking lot), overlooking Monte Nero, Monte Bue and Ragula.
For the descent you can follow the normal route retracing backwards the itinerary of the outward journey marked with red-white trail signs to return to the Bivouac Sacchi (total 1h 30′-4h 15’). Or from the top of the Groppo delle Ali continue in the direction of the nearby Monte Bue at 1771 m. Starting from the summit, take path 001, proceeding almost flat and after a short descent you reach Sella Costazza 1671 m. Continue straight towards the evident ridge of Monte Nero trail sign 003 arriving at the top of Monte Nero 1752 m, from which you can admire a majestic panorama.
Continuing you follow the path that descends the north-east ridge of the mountain, leaving a track on the right that descends in the direction of Tana del Monte Nero. Continuing along the steep path ignoring the various deviations and arriving in path 001 that allows you to reach the Zavallo Pass.
The Ferrata Mazzocchi can be linked with the Ferrata Adolfo Ferrari in a long ring itinerary that will occupy about eight hours. The best times to walk the streets are late spring, not too hot days in summer and early autumn.
